|
Pamukkale
Located 20 kilometers from the town of Denizli in the Aegean region of
Turkey, Pamukkale is one of the most interesting places in the world,
justly famous not only for the entrancing beauty of its unique geological
formations but also for its historical remains. The calcium oxide-rich
waters flowing down the southern slope of Caldag located north of the
ruins have, over the millennia, built up deposits of white travertine on
the plateau thus fully justifying both the site's ancient name of
Hierapolis (Holy City) and its modern one of Pamukkale (Cotton Castle).
Ancient Hierapolis appears to have been founded by King Eumenes II of
Pergamum and its name is derived from Hiera, the wife of King Telephos,
the legendary founder of Pergamum. The city became subject to Rome in 133
BC. In 17 BC. during the reign of Tiberius it suffered a heavy earthquake
that substantially destroyed the city, requiring it to be rebuilt.
Preliminary excavations at Hierapolis were undertaken by a German team
towards the end of the last century. Since 1957, excavation and
restoration work has been going on under the direction of an Italian group
of archaeologists from the University of Lecce sponsored by Fiat.
The ancient city was strung out on either side of a long colonnaded street
called the Plateia. Measuring 13 meters in width, this street ran north
and south from the southern gateway to the Arch of Domitian in the north.
It is paved with huge blocks of limestone. The first structure one
encounters on reaching the plateau is the city baths, which are in a very
good state of preservation. The baths are Roman and from the 2nd century
AD. In the eastern part of the baths is a palaestra measuring 36.13 by
52.25 meters. Immediately to the north and south of the palaestra are two
big rooms that were reserved for the emperor and ceremonial use. A large
hall stretches the length of the western side of the palaestra and this
was the gymnasium used by athletes. This salon led into the frigidarium
from which one proceeded to the barrel-vaulted rooms of the caldarium. A
small room adjacent to the large hall now serves as a museum in which
works discovered in the Hierapolis excavations are on display. Since
Hierapolis was principally a luxury resort town it was richly adorned with
magnificent sculptures showing the influence of the Aphrodisias school and
is well worth a visit.
The well preserved theater of Hierapolis commands magnificent view of the
plain below. The original theater was located above the northern gate, but
when the city was rebuilt during the reign of the Flavian emperors (60
AD.) the theater was relocated here, and the seats from the old structure
were used in the work. During the reign of Septimius Severus (193-211 AD.)
the theater's skenea was modified and richly decorated with relief. In 532
it was discovered that the skenea had been weakened by age and the almost
daily seismic activity that takes place here and had to be reinforced.
Since the theater has been restored, it is now possible to see the friezes
of mythological scenes depicting Apollo and Artemis in their original
positions. Thirty rows of the seats of this theater resting against the
slope have survived. Originally there were 20 rows in the lower part and
25 in the upper separated by a diazoma. The cavea was divided by eight
aisles. Passing through the city walls above the theater you can see the
Martyrion of St Philip. This is an octagonal building erected on a square
measuring 20 by 20 meters. It was built in the early 5th century. Even in
its present state of ruin it is an impressive structure.
Near the road, below the theater, is the Temple of Apollo, the principal
deity of the city. While the foundations of this temple go back to late
Hellenistic times, the present remains of the upper structure are from the
3rd century AD. Next to it there is a cave (called the Plutonion) from
which poisonous gases emerge. (According to Strabo, an ox thrust into this
cave would keel over and die. He himself experimented with doves.) The
temple measures 20 by 15 meters and sit on a platform high 2.5 meters.
Before the temple there is a monumental fountain. Built during the late
3rd century AD., the walls of this rectangular fountain are very well
preserved. There was also a pool located before the fountain and the
structure was richly adorned with statues and columns. The water for this
fountain was brought here by aqueducts, remains of which may be seen in
the vicinity of Güzelpinar and between Pamukkale and Karahayit.

East of the present museum is a Christian basilica consisting of a nave
and two aisles. It dates from the 6th century AD. Walking along the route
of the Plateia (which now passes through the modern swimming pool) reminds
us that this main street dividing the ancient city was once decorated with
colonnades, porticos, and important buildings located on either side. The
street runs directly toward the city walls passing through a gateway built
in Byzantine times atop an earlier fountain. On the way is a basilical
structure with two aisles and a nave whose eastern end terminates in an
apse. The city walls were built in 396 AD. and were reinforced by 28
towers. Passing through Byzantine gate you come to a rather well preserved
section of the Plateia. This part was built during the reign of Domitian
(81-96 AD.) and terminates with the Arch of Domitian. This monumental
gateway was actually erected by Julius Frontinus, who was proconsul of the
Roman province of Asia (middle western Anatolia) in 82 and 83 AD., and
dedicated to the emperor. The gate has two round towers and three portals.
Excavations are now in progress to reveal the remains of shops and houses
that once lined both sides of this street.
Northeast of the street between the Byzantine and Domitian gates was the
agora (market) of ancient Hierapolis. The traces of the city's original
theater may be seen above. If you follow the road in the direction of the
necropolis you pass by the imposing walls of a building originally erected
as baths around the end of the 2nd century AD. It was converted to a
church in the 5th century. The huge necropolis of Hierapolis, largest
ancient graveyard in Anatolia with more than 1200 tombs, spreads out on
either side of the road for a distance of two kilometers. It contains
tumuli, sarcophagi, and house-shaped tombs that range in date from the
late Hellenistic period to early Christian times. It is one of the most
extensive and best preserved ancient cemeteries in Anatolia. The road
proceeds on to the hot springs of Karahayit located 4 kilometers away.
|